For who ? Those that are afraid to danger themselves within the neighborhood grubby!
Cult dish? The char siu bao, plump steamed bread filled with lacquered pork (€9 every)
It was one of the anticipated openings of the 12 months. After democratizing the small plates/cocktails combo (Dersou), the Japanese chef Taku Sekine teamed up with Florent Ciccoli (Au Passage, Café du Coin…) within the coronary heart of the nineteenth arrondissement. Of the unique Chinese language restaurant, solely the blaze and the glowing purple facade stay. As a result of inside, shock! An immaculate and refined spot, signed by the Montreuil studio Ciguë: luminous aluminum suspensions, spherical tables in uncooked wooden, kitchen open to the doorway… And hop, a shot of Ripolin on the bricks, all scraped to the bones, together with picket window frames!
So this horse, is it galloping? It trotted, with right here and there a couple of frenzied cavalcades. Intelligent XXS-size revisits that borrow from Japan, Taiwan, Hong Kong… At gentrified costs – even microfiltered faucet water prices €3.50… The menu? It oscillates between the standard genres of Asian delicacies: uncooked, steamed, sautéed, and so forth.
That night, for a desk of 4 morfales: superb strips of sticky uncooked cuttlefish topped with an egg yolk (€13); tender sliced pork like in ramen (gently braised over Binchotan charcoal, €18); child langoustines sautéed with their shells in a garlic crumble and fried breadcrumbs, very Hong Kong model (€20). And above all, completely porn: the Cantonese char siu bao, plump steamed bread filled with lacquered pork (€9 every). This Lu Rou Fan Taiwanese, small bowl of tender pork rice (€10). Or this bao dessert, crammed with pastry cream (€8, to order quarter-hour prematurely). Forgettable? These 4 sticks of fried tofu, to dip in a bang bang sauce, extra Japanese than Szechuan (a bit shy on the chilli; €8).
Whereas ready for the sakes, we fall again on the pure wines and nicely forged (Voelker, Kumpf & Meyer, Robinot, Bouju, Viola…). The very best worth for cash, this Calcarius 2018, a pure white from Puglia with a pink coloration and notes of lychee, so delicate for a thirsty wine (11 levels and €32 a liter!). Watch out, rely at the very least 3 and even 4 dishes per particular person to be happy. Failing to do like us, and go placed on a lacquered duck!