Shelter | Restaurants in Poissonniere, Paris best restaurants


Katsuaki Okiyama is a genius. For having been in a position to impose (from 2012!) this radical non-decor: facade scraped to the bone, absence of a reputation on the pediment, extraction pipe patched up with massive Scotch aluminum, cracked partitions… Far too keupon on the time for the Michelin Information, which could have waited till 2019 to loosen up and award it (lastly) the much-deserved star. For this actual bias within the kitchen – particularly on bitterness, acidity – that the Zen grasp distills with surgical precision… And for the costs, nonetheless saved on a leash: since becoming a member of the starry galaxy, this nice toque, disciple of Robuchon and Taillevent, didn’t take the massive head. Its distinctive menu (6 levels) has gone from €52 to €65 within the night (however from €26 to €45 for lunch…) Arigato gozaimasu!

Eyes riveted on the central counter, we watch the Japanese chef bustling about with out saying a phrase. That lunchtime, for 45 scoops, we begin with two crimson tuna sashimi, topped with skinny slices of pink grapefruit and trout eggs, masking a mixture of tapenade, pine nuts and shiso leaf. Advanced and intense like a fragrance by Serge Lutens, the acidity and iodine being rounded off by a uncooked cream. Then comes this umamiesque soup: cockles in emulsion swimming in an additional rust, and on the backside of the bowl, quenelles of potatoes and two or three hazelnuts. Within the hair with a Poil de Lièvre 2018 from Bobinet, in good stress (€8 a balloon). The primary course is a bit more anticipated: a loin of cod in a verbena/honey emulsion, engaged on the bitterness: uncooked yellow zucchini, carrot cream, turnip… There stays this masterful custom-made dessert (every desk receives a distinct one). For us: a tomato/strawberry gazpacho, tequila sorbet. We bought it proper!

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